put it in my mouth


QUICHE, PLEASE!
April 11, 2010, 1:39 pm
Filed under: Uncategorized

I used to live a few blocks south of Tartine on Guerrero Street in San Francisco. Every morning, I forced myself to cross from the west to the east side as soon as I left my apartment; if I didn’t, it was impossible not to stop in for a croissant or a morning bun or both at once. The amount of care and butter that place puts into its pastries is truly extraordinary. You can smell it from across the street.

I recently made the quiche recipe from the Tartine cookbook, and I did a little freestyling on some extra pastry crusts. These were mildly less decadent—no crème fraiche—but they ended up being pretty delicious. The first is a variation on a quiche my mom used to make; the second uses olives, because olives make everything a little bit better.

TARTINE’S FLAKY TART DOUGH

1 tsp. salt
2/3 c. very cold water
3 c. plus 2 tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 c. plus 5 tbsp. butter, also very cold

Two things to mention: 1. I made this in a food processor. You can make it entirely by hand, by cutting the butter into the flour with sharp knives or a fork, and then mashing in the water with a fork. This approach totally works, but your forearms will be sore. Be sure not to over mix, no matter what method you use. 2. This makes enough for two crusts—either pie crusts or tart shells.

In a small bowl, dissolve the salt in the water. Put this in the fridge or the freezer until you use it to make sure that it stays cool. Put the flour into a food processor. Cut up the butter into small chunks and scatter them over the flour in the food processor. Pulse until the flour and the butter form clumps, with some small chunks of butter visible. Add the water and pulse until the mixture is a big ball. Do not overmix. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface, and form into two balls. Press the balls into disks about 1 inch thick. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least two hours or up to overnight.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Remove the dough from the fridge and roll out until it’s about ¼ inch thick, or a bit larger than your pie pan. Press dough into the pan. Line with parchment paper and add pie weights. Bake for about 25 minutes. Take out the pie weights, and return the shell to the oven. Cook another ten minutes until the bottom is golden.

ASPARAGUS PARMESAN QUICHE

1 ½ lbs. asparagus
1 c. grated parmesan cheese
½ c. whole milk
½ c. heavy cream
3 eggs
salt
cayenne
nutmeg

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Chop the asparagus, discarding the ends. Grate the parmesan. Steam the asparagus for a few minutes, just until it turns a brighter green. Toss the parmesan and the asparagus together, and place in a precooked pie shell. Whisk together the milk and cream, then whisk in the eggs one at a time. Whisk in salt, cayenne, and nutmeg (pinches of each). Pour the custard over the asparagus and parmesan. Bake for about 45 minutes, or until the top is browned and a sharp knife comes out clear (but maybe a little wet). Let rest for at least ten or fifteen minutes before serving.

TOMATO OLIVE TART

½ c. grape tomatoes
½ c. Kalamata olives
½ c. whole milk
½ c. heavy cream
3 eggs
2 cloves garlic
salt
pepper

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Slice the tomatoes in half and chop up the olives. Scatter in the bottom of a precooked tart shell. Whisk together the milk and cream, then whisk in the eggs one at a time. Whisk in salt, pepper, and pressed garlic. Pour the custard into the tarte. Bake for about 45 minutes, or until the top is browned and a sharp knife comes out clear (but maybe a little wet). Let rest for at least ten or fifteen minutes before serving.



HAPPY HAPPY TO ME
April 11, 2010, 11:49 am
Filed under: Uncategorized

In honor of this blog’s first birthday, I am having two cups of espresso and maybe some crème fraiche licked off of the back of a spoon.